Bait-Making 101: Open-Pouring Basics - The Comprehensive Beginner's Guide

Safety Equipment:

Equipping your bait shop for open-pouring soft plastic baits requires some fundamental equipment and supplies. As with every hobby or occupation that has in-built hazards, a strong commitment to safety and situational awareness is key to success. Your eyes, for instance, are particularly vulnerable during the pouring process in the event of a spill or splash, so a quality pair of eye protection is a must. While most eyewear will suffice, sealed options offer enhanced protection. Given the soaring temperatures, you'll be dealing with – think upwards of 400°F – high-temperature-resistant gloves are non-negotiable. Welding gloves are a great pick here, and if you need more dexterity, tig-welding gloves are an excellent option.

Also, since we'll be melting plastic to a high temperature, a Borosilicate Glass measuring cup, often known by brand names like Pyrex or Anchor Hocking, is essential. Its unique glass composition is perfectly suited to withstand the intense heat produced when heating plastisol. When purchasing a measuring cup, make sure that the cup is rated for heat, and is NOT a normal glass measuring cup.

What You Need:

• Eye Protection: Any will do, but sealed is superior.
• High-Temperature Resistant Gloves: Welding gloves are a good choice.
• Organic Respirator: Ensure it's organics rated.
• Fan for Ventilation: Box fans are effective and affordable.
• Clothing: Long-sleeved shirts, long pants, and closed-toed shoes. This attire helps guard against any accidental spills or splashes.

Bait Shop Equipment:

Next, you'll need a method to heat your plastisol to its melting point. This is where the microwave becomes invaluable. It might seem surprising to some, but a standard kitchen microwave is one of the most efficient tools for this task. Nonetheless, you'll want a microwave dedicated to bait-making, as using it for food afterward isn't advisable. An 800w microwave will suffice, but a 1000w model guarantees more consistent and quicker heating. Don't worry about expenses – there's no need for a brand-new microwave. Many bait-makers find stellar deals on used ones at yard sales, Goodwill, thrift shops, and online classifieds. You might even snag one at Goodwill for a mere $20-$30.

Beyond simply melting the plastisol, monitoring its temperature is crucial. An immersion thermometer, especially a digital instant-read variant, is pivotal for ensuring your plastisol's ideal consistency and temperature, preventing overheating and potential degradation. Once melted and colored, tools like a 1 teaspoon measuring spoon and a flatware or butter knife are essential for adding colorants, glitter, and other additives. Lastly, the mold is your canvas in this craft. An open-pour style mold, such as the recommended Moose Ridge Mold, is ideal for beginners, laying a strong foundation for crafting lures. The right tools not only make the process smoother but also enhance the quality of your finished baits.

What You Need:

• Microwave: 800 watts is the baseline, but a 1000 watt unit is ideal.
• Measuring Cup: A 1-cup Borosilicate type, with Pyrex or Anchor Hocking being reputable brands.
• Thermometer: An immersion variant is needed. Digital instant-read types are the best bet.
• Measuring Spoon: A 1-teaspoon measure will do. Even a budget-friendly $1 set is adequate.
• Stirring Knife: A standard flatware or butter knife.
• Bait Mold: An open pour style. The Moose Ridge Mold (Reference: #120) comes highly recommended.

Consumable Supplies:

Bait-making is as much about the art as it is about the ingredients. Front and center of this craft is Plastisol. This is the stuff that transforms from a simple liquid into those flexible, enticing baits that seem irresistible to fish. If you're starting out, a gallon of Plastisol is a good quantity to experiment with. It's enough to practice and perfect your technique without feeling wasteful.

Colors and shine can make or break a lure's attractiveness. That's where Plastisol colorants and high-temp glitter step in. You have the freedom to customize, whether it's to replicate the subtle hues of natural prey or create something flashy that stands out. The glitter, designed to endure the heat, adds that alluring shimmer, mimicking the scales of fish. Once you've got your baits molded and shimmering, a bit of worm oil helps maintain their lifelike wiggle. A quick tip: it's generally best to match the brand of your worm oil with your Plastisol for optimal results. And after crafting, proper storage in laminated bags or a worm box ensures your creations stay ready for action, keeping their shape and shine for the next fishing trip.

What You Need:

• Plastisol: For those testing the waters, a gallon should suffice.
• Plastisol Colorants: To add some vibrancy to your baits.
• High-Temp Glitter: For that added shimmer.
• Worm Oil: It's crucial to ensure the worm oil brand matches the brand of the plastisol being used to ensure compatibility and consistency.
• Storage: Laminated storage bags or a dedicated worm box for your finished baits.

Order Of Operations:

Understanding the order of operations in open-pouring soft plastic baits is essential to ensure a safe, effective, and productive bait-making session. Jumping into the bait-making process without a plan might seem tempting, especially when you're eager to see the results. But remember, working with soft plastics is both an art and a science. Each step is carefully crafted to help you achieve the perfect lure, balancing both aesthetic appeal and functionality. Additionally, in the world of soft plastic bait making, timing and precision play crucial roles, especially when handling dangerously hot materials like cooked plastisol that require special safety equipment and handling procedures.

One of the most common mistakes beginners make is not shaking or mixing the plastisol adequately. Plastisol, being the heart and soul of your soft plastics, requires a thorough mix to ensure a consistent cure in your baits. Think of it as preparing a gourmet dish – each ingredient and every step is there for a reason. Heating is another step that needs careful attention. Too little heat and your plastisol won’t cure and will remain sticky; too much, and you risk breaking it down and burning the plastisol, releasing toxic gasses into the air. The use of a microwave in controlled bursts ensures the plastisol is heated evenly and to the perfect temperature. And while the allure of vibrant colors and glitters is undeniable, it's essential not to rush the addition of these elements. They are the finishing touches, added when the plastisol is at just the right consistency.

Plastisol Mixing and Cooking Order of Operations

1. Shake or Mix Plastisol: Ensure it’s thoroughly mixed in its original container. If you believe you've shaken enough, shake 3x more.
2. Measure: Pour out 1-cup of liquid plastisol into the borosilicate measuring cup.
3. Select Colorants: Refer to our Bait Book for color recipes.
4. Select Glitter: Choose the glitter that aligns with your bait vision.
5. Prep for Stirring: Position your stirring knife close to the microwave.
6. Choose Your Mold: Decide on the mold you'll be pouring into.
7. Safety First: Put on your high-temp gloves and other required PPE.
8. Heat Plastisol: Begin with 30-45 second bursts on high in the microwave. As the temperature rises to 270-300°F, reduce to 15-second bursts. Aim for a final temperature between 350°F and 360°F, taking care not to surpass 375°F. Always consult the manufacturer's heating instructions before proceeding with heating any plastisol as some blends require different cooking temperatures. 
9. Degassing: Occasionally, plastisol may contain moisture. This induces bubbles in the plastisol during heating as the moisture flashes to steam. To remove them, use a vacuum chamber for degassing. Note that not all plastisol brands require this step, so always refer to the product specifications.
10. Add the Magic: Incorporate colorants and glitter.
11. Stir: Mix well to ensure an even distribution.
12. Final Temperature Check: If it's 280°F - 320°F or below, you're ready to pour into the mold. Note that some molds require lower pouring temperatures. Some molds may also require pre-heating on a griddle or bait-making hot plate. When in doubt, ask the manufacturer. It's extremely important to note that Moose Ridge Molds, such as the blue molds seen in this tutorial never require pre-heating of any form, and is discouraged by the manufacturer. 

Remember, while this order offers a structured approach to mixing and cooking your plastisol, there's always room for personal tweaks and preferences as you gain more experience in the soft plastic bait-making hobby. The tips below will help you get better with every pour, and will help you prepare to actually pour some baits! 

Tidy up your workspace:

Ensuring a tidy workspace is paramount when starting your open-pouring process. A cluttered area can not only hinder your movement but also introduce contaminants into your baits or could cause accidents. By taking a few moments to organize your tools, clear any debris, and position your materials within easy reach, you set the stage for a more efficient and satisfying bait-making session. A clean environment reflects in the quality of the baits produced, so it's worth the initial effort.

Maker To Mold Orientation

When it comes to open-pouring baits, orientation can make a world of difference. Think of it like painting— you wouldn't try to create a masterpiece at an awkward angle. Position yourself such that your arm can comfortably trace the mold cavity's path beneath the measuring cup. Remember, you're controlling the cup, not the mold. The fluidity of your movements can either make or break the final product, so practice makes perfect.

Flow Control

One of the hardest things to learn when first starting your open pouring journey will be flow control. Understanding how your plastisol of choice flows at different temperatures will greatly improve your open pouring experience, but unfortunately, this is just one of those things you have to learn through experience. The best way to master flow control is to simply pour more baits, and to pour as many of the "harder to pour" molds as you can. With time, your muscles will develop the memory needed for this to become second nature. 

Pour Thin to Thick For best Results

Most open-pour bait molds are easiest poured from the thin side of the bait cavity to the thick side. This allows the plastisol to have a well or basin that is lower than the thin sections, helping to prevent overfilling. With that said, this method is not always the optimal solution, for example, some laminating techniques require you to fill the bait cavity half full before pouring the next color, but for most situations, this method works almost every time. If you have been frustrated with overfilling your bait cavities, this "Thin to Thick" technique will likely help you improve your results. 

Start Pouring In A Wider/Deeper Spot If Needed

Sometimes the bait cavity you want to pour might have a very small or thin section that is just too small of a target to start your pour in. It's perfectly fine to start your pour in a better spot of the mold as long as you quickly move into the thin sections before filling the cavity so full as to prevent the thin areas from having a well to drain slightly into. 

I put the video below together to help you better visualize the Thin to Thick Open Pouring Technique. It's 14-Minutes straight of nothing but Thin to Thick open pouring illustrating the methods mentioned above. Refer back to this video when working through the tutorial below. 

14 Minutes Of The Thick To Thin Open Pouring Technique