Cherry Seed: A Classic That Still Performs Everywhere!

Recipe Intro

Loved by both Bass and Fishermen alike, Cherry Seed is one of those colors that has stood the test of time. It's been around since the beginning of soft plastics and is a color your grandfather would brag to his fishing buddies about. Because of its popularity, Cherry Seed is one of the most replicated colors out there, which means there are dozens, if not hundreds of ways to make it. This recipe is our variant of this popular color! 

Color Example Images
Recipe Ingredients
Plastisol | Additives | Liquid Colorants
Plastisol Amount
1.00 Cup
Plastisol Liquid Colorant
Liquid Colorant Amount
40.00 Drops
Plastisol Liquid Colorant
Liquid Colorant Amount
10.00 Drops
Powdered Pigments | Glitter & Flake
Glitter & Flake
Glitter Size
Glitter Shape
Glitter Color Type
Glitter Amount
1/4 Teaspoon
Glitter & Flake
Glitter Size
Glitter Shape
Glitter Color Type
Recipe Notes
  • Adjust the deeper red hue and translucency of the bait by adding fewer drops of the red colorant for a less saturated and opaque bait. Adding more drops will increase the color saturation and opacity of the bait. 
     
  • For a slightly different presentation add 5-10 drops of Dead On Plastics Snowshine, or Dorothy Pearl Effects Colorants. These colorants will add a “sheen” to the bait.  
     
  • Colorants can lose some of their vibrance and unique properties when overheated. Always check the plastisol's temperature before adding the colorant.
     
Recipe Instructions
  1. Base Setup: Use 1 cup of your preferred brand and hardness of plastisol. Shake or stir in the original container until the plastisol is uniform in color to avoid curing issues.
     
  2. Oil-Based Additives: If required by the recipe, add any oil-based plastisol additives at this stage. This includes hardener, softener, or heat stabilizer. 
     
  3. Initial Heating: Heat plastisol in the microwave in 1-minute intervals until plastisol starts to turn clear. Check temperature and continue heating in 15-30 second bursts. Monitor temperature after each round to ensure the plastisol reaches the manufacturer's recommended “cooking” temperature. (Usually 350°F) Try not to overshoot this temperature by very much. 
     
  4. Scorch Warning: If the plastisol's temperature exceeds 380°F, it will begin to scorch and could burn. If this is the case, vacate the area due to toxic fumes, and return only after adequate ventilation has occurred. 
     
  5. Degassing: If your plastisol requires degassing for bubble prevention, complete this step now.
     
  6. Colorant and Pigment: Integrate liquid colorants and powdered pigments, ensuring a thorough mix for at least one minute to eliminate color streaks.
     
  7. Flake / Glitter: Cautiously add flake, taking note that high temperatures can cause it to curl or bleed. Flake may also alter the bait's color.
     
  8. Dry Additives and Salt: Add any remaining dry plastisol additives, including salt if necessary. Be aware that salt can introduce bubbles and lighten the bait’s color.
     
  9. Final Temperature Check: Ensure the plastisol is at your desired injection or pouring temperature, typically somewhere between 280°F and 320°F. Make temperature adjustments in 10-15 second increments in the microwave if necessary. Note that some glitter will bleed and curl at temperatures over 320°F
     
  10. Mold Injection/Pour: Proceed to inject or pour into molds, observing all safety guidelines
Soft Plastics Safety
  • The working temperature of plastisol is upwards of 350f on the extremely high-end with scorched plastisol reaching temperatures of 400f or higher. Plastisol releases chlorine gas and other toxic and nauseous fumes that are extremely hazardous to humans when heated to its scorching point. Proper PPE is required at all times when working with Plastisol. 
     
  • Be aware that spilled onto flesh or clothing almost always results in a 3rd degree burn, and it’s important to wear closed-toed shoes, long pants, and long sleeves when working with plastisol. Additionally, a good pair of leather, heat-resistant gloves are required at all times to protect your hands from very severe burns. 
     
  • It’s important to remember that hot plastisol is the consistency of extremely sticky glue, and it is impossible to wipe off, pull off, or throw off any hot plastisol that might spill on your skin or clothing. The resulting burn is instantaneous, so always work with your skin covered, and protected. 
     
  • For all of these reasons and more, you should always wear proper PPE when working with plastisol. This includes, at a minimum, eye protection, an air-purifying respirator, and skin-covering clothing. Consult the manufacturer’s literature and the plastisol’s MSDS sheet to familiarize yourself with the chemicals you are working with, and when in doubt, give the manufacturer a call and ask about their safety recommendations. 
     
  • It’s also important to always work with plastisol in a well-ventilated area, with some form of airflow moving the plastisol fumes away from you and out of the area. 
     
  • Making Baits is not an authority on bait-shop safety, but we use the following PPE items when working with plastisol in our bait shop. Attempt anything you see on this website at your own risk, and please do additional research on how to work safely with plastisol. When in doubt, contact the manufacturer for their safety guidelines. 
  1. Closed-Toed Shoes
  2. Long Pants
  3. Long-Sleeved Shirt
  4. Leather Heat-Resistant Gloves
  5. Organic Vapor Respirator
  6. Safety Glasses
  7. Proper Work Space Ventilation 

 

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